Black and white mini-check silk taffeta soft crown bonnet with self fabric rosette.
Close up of the rosette and the band of ruched fabric covering the crown.
The rosette was constructed of a spiral of pinked and feathered fabric stitched to a piece of black crinoline.
This shows how closely the rows of fabric were stitched down.
The strip of crinoline covering the brim edge wire shows through the shattered silk.
View of the shattered willow (buckram alternative) that was used to support the soft crown.
View of the brim support wires.
Detail of a support wire crimped around the brim edge wire.
The ruched crown band tacked to the brim fabric.
The fabric was allowed to speak for itself on this bonnet as a self-fabric rosette was the only (apparent) decoration. The curtain was removed at some point.
Very tiny checks like this are one of the very, very few patterned fabrics used on mid-century bonnets. Small checks were mentioned as suitable for travel bonnets.
You can see both sides; one is esparterie grass and the other a finely woven cotton. This material could be shaped in the hand with out a block or piecing. Unfortunately, it's no longer available.
You can see the 2 gauges of wire used for supporting and shaping the brim. This method uses short lengths of lighter wire, crimped over the heavier wire. An alternative method is shown on another bonnet. The wires are covered with net.
Here is seen the bound neck edge and the brim covering fabric brought to the inside and stitched down to the net. The selvedge was used for the inner edge.
The cheek tabs are somewhat askew. The ribbon ties run the full length of the cheek tabs. The rise of the brim is not so exaggerated as in previous years and the fashionable bonnet is getting smaller.
